Friday, 5 October 2012

The West Kimberley


Red Rocks & Crocs

September 2012


We put the windows down, turned Johnny Cash up and struck out across the wild west Kimberley. We were soon surrounded by a magnificent rugged landscaped dotted with boab trees and sliced by mighty rivers.




The boabs look like they might grab you if you turned your back



 Fires in the sky....controlled burning and lightning-strike fires are a common feature in the Kimberley and create a dramatic backdrop.





                                            Hmm - Now we just find a place to camp - without getting barbecued
 

Tunnel Creek

With our head torches providing the only light, we waded through the eerie dark water with bats screeching above...needless to say, the kids loved it.




                      Catwoman, The Joker & Riddler in the bat cave.  

 

Windjana Gorge

The hot blue Kimberley sky contrasts dramatically with the black and orange cliffs at Windjana Gorge                           
Our first close encounter with Freshwater crocodiles.
 
 
And these guys are the nice ones apparently!!



Action adventure....zzzz

That's more like it - time to get the wheels wet
The Good: Running so late in the dry season that all the swimming holes had heated up to about 28C and we had most of them to ourselves.
The Bad: Our physical collapse after 4 months on the road. It wasn't only the car that needed a service and major overhaul before setting out across the Kimberley. We spent our last week in Broome booking into physios, doctors for bung shoulders and backs. Leanne's was diagnosed as rotator cuff tendinitis, which I prefer to call heavy-crate-awkward-trailer-wriggly-Archie-itis. After a spot of acupuncture and pressure-point stuff, I was on the mend. Paul fared even worse....
The Ugly: Craigie's lip after having a skin cancer removed (see below). Fortunately, it wasn't a nasty.
 
Yee-ouch
 

The Gibb River Road

 
With great excitement and anticipation - and a few prayers that the car and trailer would stay in one piece - we finally turned on to the Gibb River Road and it didn't take long for its treasures to reveal themselves.
 
Bell Gorge
 
 
Ministry of funny walks

Rock hopper
 
 


Made it and what a treat





Last one in's a rotten egg
Great campground at Manning Gorge.

A rare restful moment for Paul at Manning Gorge
But, it's not all laying about is it Paul? He's getting heavy our almost 3-year-old
 
 
Manning Gorge Falls - a tough walk in, but a big reward at the end
 



Oh guys, do I have to go swimming in another waterfall?
Yee haa!!!!

Not so good for the rotator cuff tendinitis ....but I had to do it.
The Good: The road-grader fairy that seemed to be just ahead of us wherever we travelled in the Kimberley and made our Gibb-River-Road and Mitchell Plateau crossings much less nerve wracking.
The Bad: Despite the above-mentioned fairy, we still managed to shake off our spotlights and spare-tyre carrier, requiring some emergency welding repairs at Drysdale River Station.
The Ugly: The poor lady who broke her leg at Manning Gorge Falls and had to be stretchered out by 6 obliging tourists enduring a torturous 2-hour retrieval over a scrambly, rocky trail with limited pain relief before being helicoptered to Derby and flown to Perth. Happy holidays!

 

Monday, 27 August 2012

Middle Lagoon


Heading north along the coast from Broome

Early August 2012

Well, we've enjoyed a lot of beach along the WA coast but Middle Lagoon, about 200kms north of Broome, may be our favourite (thanks to my ol' boss Kym Tilbrook for the tip). Run by the Gnylmarung community (try saying that sober), this campground was very laid back and idyllic.


   The observation deck - we enjoyed plenty of morning coffees overlooking this beautiful bay with whales breaching and tail slapping. In the quiet of night we could hear what sounded like car doors slamming...only after a while did we realise it was the whales crashing about.



The kids are playing on the beach below...so shall we fish, read or just enjoy the view?

The camera doesn't do it justice, but 20 whale sightings a day were not uncommon.

 
Kicking back...30C on average...a charmed life indeed.
 This beach life is just exhausting.......















Not to be out done on the relaxation stakes.


Now for some adventure - Mud-crabbing time



The ute with an old lounge chair strapped on the back tears along the bumpy red track. Branches whistle overhead as the local Gnylmarung kids and Riley bounce along whooping with glee. It was one of those times as a parent that you just cross your fingers.

Our guide Bunches (Keith) assures us they don't get crocs in these parts....well not too often anyway!
The kids get a lesson in spear handling.

Got one!
 
 
 You've got to be kidding if you expect me to eat this!



That's OK........more for mum and dad.....YUM!

 

Broome - Cable Beach

Paul flies home briefly to visit his dad who's just had heart surgery. Mum holds the fort at Broome.
 
Cable Beach mermaid....so far so good.
Not a bad pool for a caravan park....only 2 more days til Paul gets back.
 
 Uh oh......

On the eve of Paul's return, the gastro hits the Rowdy Roadtrippers again....Nikita bounced back quickly, but poor Riley is down for the count for 5 days. The good news is that Robin is making an excellent recovery....so it's back to Middle Lagoon for us.
 

Rowdy Moments - weeks 12-14

 
The Good: The unexpected concert by a fantastic Aboriginal duo "The Pigram Brothers" outside our camper trailer at Broome. We returned dishevelled from a day out to a mass of deck chairs all around us and great Kimberley music playing - it was a bit of a treat.
The Bad: Seeing Riley so unwell.....they breed some good bugs in these parts and we simply had to sit it out and keep him cool and hydrated.
The Ugly: The Cable Beach nudists (according to the kids). While driving along the beach we came across the nudie bit which was a bit bereft of luscious Dutch backpackers but well stocked with retirees resplendent in their beer guts, no-longer-gravity-defying boobs, wrinkly pink butt cheeks and assorted dangly bits. "Look, these people are so ruuuude," shrieked Nikita. "Let's get outta here...these people are freaking me out," insisted Riley. Ok, ok back to the regular beach for us.
 
 

Middle Lagoon (again)

Mud-crabbing adventure - part two. Hey, I'm an old hand at this now......
 But, are you sure there's no crocs here?





 
Yep, trust me.....

 
Only these little beauties
 
 
Wood collection at sunset for mud-crab fires.
 
 Now for a spot of beach fishing. Longtoms put up a good fight....
But Archie's not so sure about those teeth. 



 
 
 
Well, I guess it was only a matter of time.
 
 
Cape Leveque - near the tip of the Dampier Peninsula - our next swimming beach is about 3000kms to the right...no wonder we're finding it hard to leave here.
Beach bum mum.
 
Lego knows no cultural boundaries....our kids buddy up with the local kids. It's a shame to say goodbye.
But, that's enough lounging about. Time to leave the coast....the Kimberley awaits.... 
 

 
 

Saturday, 11 August 2012

Dampier Peninsula

James Price Point

Mid July 2012

This lovely remote hideaway 80kms north of Broome provided plentiful fish, magnificent sunsets, humpback whales, turtles, dolphins, sea eagles and long, lonely beach walks....but maybe not for long. It is also home to the controversial proposed $30 billion gas pipeline project.



The road gets wide, bumpy and red at the doorstep to the Kimberleys.

 Not bad for a free campsite - turquoise ocean, framed by red cliffs. The beach was all ours, with rock-pools filled with fish, crabs and octopus.
The locals are divided over the pipeline project - $1.5 billion in royalties versus a pristine environment...not hard to guess what we would choose 





Wipeout - a rare motionless moment from the running boy flattened by a bout of gastro that hit the Rowdy Roadtrip for six.







We're back....Nikita and Archie shake the bug and get back to their rowdy best.


Meanwhile, nothing was stopping the hunters and gatherers. Johan and Paul have "the best fishing day ever" bringing in a bag of fiesty salmon. 









Not sure what's bigger the grin or the fish!

What are you laughing at Archie? Oh, that funny nude dude in the background......well he's not coming into the tent reeking of fish.











A creative Nikita moment transforms dried sea sponges into a snowman. The latest in a host of Nikita Shrines crafted from rocks, shells, sand and mud that are dotted across the WA landscape



 Tarzan's back - Ahhhhh, ah, ah, ah, ah, ahhhhh

                           



 

 

 




 



Rowdy Moments - Week 11

The Good: Finding some wonderful free camping in the ridiculously regulated and restricted WA wilderness.....unless you're a miner that is.
The Bad: You know that wonderful Weber Q I was raving about? Well, I blasted my eyebrows and hairline off with it this week.....attractive.
The Ugly: The ugliest of the ugly...Nikita and Archie's team vomit inside the camper trailer in the middle of the night over all of their bedding and ours. Could have been worse. Fortuntately we were at the Broome Caravan Park at the time with washing machines on hand. Still it was a horror night. Stop laughing...I know we deserve it.

James Price Point beach was just beautiful. It was a shame Lara (bottom) and I were too scared to go swimming. We later found out there were no crocs, but better to be safe than eaten I guess.


























Watching sea eagles and ospreys nesting along  deserted beaches